Average Reviews:
(More customer reviews)I've been woodworking for about 3 years now, and have finally gotten the hang of an off-the-gun finish, thanks to this line of waterborne poly. I've tried various products, including Hydrocote Resisthane, Olympic Poly, Varathane, the Beher brand sold at Home Depot *horrible* and most recently Target 9300 Super Clear, which sells for roughly double the price. None of the above products cures as quickly or lays out a uniform film like this product. And it's about the middle of the road as far as cost goes, which will allow you to spend more on wood, and worry less about the finish.
Here's the setup:
1) If you're looking for the "wet" look of an off-the-gun finish, you'll be spraying, not brushing. If you're brushing, you might want to try a good wiping varnish or use de-waxed shellac instead, as the key benefit of a water based poly is that it's non-explosive when atomized by a gun. We'd all be using laquer or shellac with our guns if we could, but most of us don't have explosion-proof booths.
2) Check your gun for it's ability to atomize the product, and thin as required. I found I needed to thin with about 10 to 15% water (even if Cabot recommends against it).
3) Don't be afraid to condition the wood to avoid raising the grain. I use a washcoat of shellac and denatured alcohol stained to my preference, then follow with a water-based dye. There will still be some roughness, but after the first two coats of finish, it will begin to feel (and look) like a smooth, uniform surface.
4) Don't skimp on the fluid rate. The first couple of coats should go quickly, and be fairly thick so that when you sand them down you probably won't go through the finish. Sand with 600 grit after coat 1 and 2, and by coat three, the finished surface will start to look like a wavy mirror or a sheet of glass. Coat 4 might not require sanding at all; the key is to make sure that the surface is evenly covered with a film of finish.
5) Don't sweat any small bubbles or minor "fish eye" you might see in the wet finish. Most, if not all, of these will pop and/or melt into the surrounding finish as it crosslinks. You'll be amazed at the difference between a coat that is 30 mins old when compared to a piece that's been able to cure for a day or so.
6) Fix any runs you see while the finish is still wet with a damp rag, and reapply quickly. There will most likely still be sanding involved, but it will be much less painful than letting it dry.
7) All of this, unfortunately, is very much affected by your equipment, and the temperature your working at. I've generally found the sweet spot to be between 65 and 80 degrees, and until just recently was using a low-end gun (much easier and faster if you're willing to pay a little extra).
If you follow these simple rules and aren't afraid to experiment and find the combination that fits you best, you'll be able to make even plywood shine like it's under a sheet of glass.
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